And considering the topic on a federal scale, I unexpected for myself learned that in the Smolensk region in the village of Flenovo, too, there is also a terry teremok, deserving of my attention. So the idea was born to go and see! We drove through Roslavl. The road took about 4.5 hours :)
ANDstoriko-architectural complex "Teremok" (and besides the lace house, which we went to see, there was still a lot of everything interesting!) Openfrom 10.00 to 17.00, on Friday a little less - until 16.00, and on Monday, chain dogs are descended - and no fairy tale.
Terems stands in the former estate of Princess Maria Tenishva. Who is she? - you ask. Russian aristocrat, collector of art objects, patentators and great enlightened. Her portraits wrote Repin, Serov, Vrubel, Korovin. Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky himself admired her vocal skill. Roerich called her estate "art nest", and evil tongues said that she imites Savva Mamontov. Tenisheva was a very noticeable figure of his time. Contemporaries called her "pride of Russia."
For example, how often did you draw you? Princess Tenishev - often! And I would like to think that from sincere admiration. I will show the four of its most famous portraits. Although only the repinne is about a dozen about them :)
From the book of Maria Tenishva "Impressions of my life":
"... I'm sick to death to pose Repin. He wrote and painted me almost six or seven times, tormented without end, and portraits went out one worse than the other, and every time I had trouble with my husband every time: he could not see them. In addition, the repincial insincerity and flattering me were bored: "That's the way ... as well ... what a beautiful pose ..."
Ay da Repin! Ay yes Sukin Son! :)))))
Portrait of his authorship. One of (1896).
And this is the work of Valentina Serov (1898). Judging by the face of Tenisheva, he is not the fact that she was tormented by a repincial, he really tied it :)))
For the arrival of Konstantin Korovina, the princess has already been completed with his gravity shares "forever to positive" (1899).
The most interesting and unusual, in my opinion, the portrait of Mary Tenisheva in the image of Valkiriya Vrubel (1899). For reference: Valkyrie - the heroine of Scandinavian myths, which Reets on the winged horse over the battlefield, picks up fallen warriors and sends them to heavenly.
One day, Prince Tenishev presented his wife's birthday to the whole estate, bought it from Catherine Svyatopolk-Four-China (Princess girlfriend). And Maria Claudiyevna turned this corner of the Earth into a real Russian fairy tale! True, not so much has been preserved - the manor has suffered a lot during the Great Patriotic War.
The main decoration of the manor Teremok was built on the draft Russian artist Sergei Malyutin in 1901.By the way, Malyutin is the author of the painting of the first Russian matryoshka and illustrations for Pushkin's fairy tales: "Ruslan and Lyudmila", "about Tsar Saltan", "On the dead princess and seven heroes", "About the Golden Cockerel".
In the fabulous terrel, everything is obliged to be fabulous :) Everything is to the smallest details. On the walls, doors, shutters, eaves - everywhere there are wonderful animals, magic flowers and cunning patterns.
Princess Tenisheva and herself painted very well, fond of art enamel and dreamed of reviving this technique in Russia. Her work was exhibited in London, Prague, Brussels, Paris. In Teremka, they are also represented. One - right on the old brick foundation :) Similarity with a bear-uniniege accidental.
In general, we did not leave the feeling of the fabulousness of this place. It seemed that we will open the door, and from there, how the skates-hunchback, fire-birds, carpets, aircraft, boots, swords, bears, bragies will be allowed ... "Open the door" we were allowed for 50 p. per person. To be illictly to photograph, it was necessary to give another 200 r. Here, from somewhere, the magic toad got out and banned me to silent money. As a result, I made only three frames.
In the Teremka every thing is special. You read the names of the authors, and the diva is given. The world of Vrubel fantasies, Malyutina, Vasnetsova and many others ...
Not far from Teremka, on a high hill - Church of the Holy Spirit In the style of ancient Russian traditions: multi-tiered "Kokoshniki", steps flowing into the sky, a small bulbous iron head, but the most impressive is a face over the entrance. He is huge. In the sun rays - delightfully calm, at dusk - a little ominous, it is like "alive"!
Mosaic panel "Savior Independent" on the facade of the temple performed Nikolai Roerich, who was friends with the princess Tenishcheva.
He (with sons) worked on the interior of the temple. Painted was called "C. heavenly Alina on the River River". Alas, these frescoes are not preserved. Only black and white photo of 1911. Photo source: rossiyanavsegda.ru.
That's what I wrote about the queen of the poet Voloshin: "Flame, golden-scarlet, crimson, payday sleeps of the celestial, the walls of buildings, deploying above the clouds, in the midst of the Queen of the Heavenly in a white dress, and at the bottom of a latitive cloudy day and student waters of the everyday river life. Strangely affects and, perhaps, attracts in this composition, this is what, although all the elements in it, apparently, Byzantine, it is purely Buddhist, Tibetan. "
The eastern motifs of the interior noticed not only Voloshin, as a result, the temple of the Holy Spirit was never consecrated. The bell tower also did not have time to build - the first world did not give. In the temple there was a tomb of Prince Tenisheva, but in 1923 they were ruined her, the body of the prince tied to a horse and dragged in the fields (as old-timers say). In the temple, the warehouse was organized, the grains were referred to the trucks right through the windows, which caused the final and irreparable harm to the pains of the Roerich: (
"The memory of Prince Vyacheslav Nikolayevich Tenisheva. 1843-1903.".
In 1919, the princess Maria Tenisheva emigrated to France. For the last years of his life, she lived in complete porch near Paris - in the town of Vastreson. She was not April 14, 1928.
In the necrologist, the artist Ivan Bilibin wrote: "She devoted his own Russian art to his own Russian art, for which he made infinitely a lot."
Not far from the fabulous terchemka is a monument to the hostess. The princess is exactly walking on the manor paths, meeting guests.
The shopping house was destroyed by the Germans during the Great Patriotic War. What it was, you can judge the "doll house" in the apple orchard :)
And this is the same house of culture, which preserved the foundation of the houses of Tenishev. The current address: Talashkino, ul. Parkovaya, 14. Talashkino borders Flenovo, the estate was located on the territory of two settlements at once.
Flenovo has preserved two more colorful buildings: a rural-economic craft school (wooden building with columns) and a hostel for schoolchildren (a small house next to her).
By the way, on Saturday day on the territory of the museum of weddings was neuroran! I was curious, an outbound wedding ceremony on a fabulous glade in front of the Teremku costs 7,000 rubles.
All weddings were "color": yellow, turquoise and red were crowded on the paths. From the side it was not so much aesthetic as ridiculous :) "Forged chains, and we came to you!" :))
And even despite all this wedding vanity, fashionable devices, cobcoda-like limousines, the ringing of bottles and a three-letter echo, in the estate there are many corners, where "Gray Heron - in the Kamyshey", where "ate in the sky, where the best lives," Where the time stopped exactly. Beauty.
We did not suspect that herons can swing on the tops of the high trees (everything is somehow in the sky or on the water they were before).
Herl is nervous, but proud!
From the fabulous Flenovo, we went to the city of Hero Smolensk - and this is 20 kilometers of the way.
"Weekend route" was spontaneous, so the hotel booked on the eve of the evening (Bucking Foreva!) - Apartments in the very center on the street. Big Soviet 18/18,1500 rubles per night for two, at the disposal - kitchen with microwave, refrigerator, washing machine, dishes and everything necessary. The pedestrian street begins immediately around the corner :) Parking is free. In general, whom did not scare and interested, write in a personal - let the exact coordinates. The number is very ascetic, but the two-story :)))
Smolensk fortress wall (1596-1602)- The biggest defensive structure at the time in Russia. In the plan, the fortress had a kind of incorrect closed figure. With a length of 6.5 km, the Smolensk fortress wall covered the city with an area of \u200b\u200babout 2.7 square meters. km.
The fortress included 38 straight and as many towers. The average value was straightforward between the towers of about 158 \u200b\u200bm., Width - from 5.2 to 6 m. The height of the walls - on average from 13 to 19 m. Together with the teeth. The width of the combat site of the Smolensk wall is 4-4.5 m.
Among 38 towers: 16 multifaceted (round), 13 deaf rectangular towers and 9 rectangular with gates. The main railway towers were in the northern part of the fortress - Frolovsky (Dneprovskaya) Tower, in the southern part - Molokhovskaya.
In addition to the two main travel towers, the Smolensk fortress had 7 additional gorgeous towers, which were not intended for the front entrances to the city. They had the so-called "knee" passage and were intended for internal use. Abrajamyevskaya, Elelennaya, Lazarevskaya, the Kryonashev tower was located on the eastern side of the city, and Kopytenskaya, Pyatnitskaya and Pyatnitsky Water - on the Western. Differing from each other with dimensions, these towers inside were almost the same, but some of them had two tiers, and others - three. Part of them (Lazarevskaya, Avraamiyevskaya, Eleninskaya and Kopytenskaya) are preserved to the present day. Strongly protruding in relation to the walls, these towers are almost square in terms of. Each of them is equipped with two wide arched openings, one of which is on the back side, and the other on the side facing the field.
In the thickness of the wall, directly at the gorgeous towers, Fedor Horse also laid out narrow vaulted stairs, which in the painted list of 1665 are called stone shoots. These sections gave the opportunity to rise to the upper tiers of the towers, and the walls of the walls adjacent to them. The surface of the combat site had a brick pill.
The bottom of the fortress is posted from the right, well-dyed rectangular blocks of white stone with a length of 92 to 21 cm. And from 34 to 20 cm high., And at the top - from a well-burnt red brick, the dimensions of which 31x15x6 cm. Brick weight in a dry state was 6, 5 - 7.5 kg.
Wall masonry welded walls. The wall consists of some of the two vertical walls, the space between which is filled with boot (brick battle, whips of white stone, cobblestones, and even the kernels, filled with lime mortar).
The whole fortress was supplied under the oak roof. The roofs of deaf and ductal towers, like the roof of two main towers of the fortress were wooden, apparently in two boards. With high tents, Smolensk towers are depicted on the Wilhelma Gondius engraving. Personal Steps, as it took the Frolov and Moho Gate, did not have these towers.
For the first time in the history of military defensive construction, the Smolensk fortress wall was equipped with 3 battle tiers: plantar, middle and upper. An important feature of Smolensk fortress is the second (medium) tier of the battle. The sole and medium battles were located in the vaulted niches arranged in the masonry. Upper - in the teeth, delivered at the outer edge of the upper battle.
Smolensk fortress wall (Smolensk Kremlin) was built in 1595-1602 during the reign of the kings of Fyodor John and Boris Godunov. The architect of this building is Fedor Kon.
Smolensk fortress wall in the people is called Smolensk Kremlin. Once she had many buildings and structures and was an important strategic object, the main goal of which was the protection of the city from attacks. Until our time, only a small wall of the Smolensk Kremlin remained.
Now only the surviving fragments of the walls and several steensions of the Smolensk Kremlin open up the tourist. The fact that only part has been preserved to this day Smolensk fortress wall, built at the end of the XVI century, only gives the monument to ancient authenticity.
Stone walls already at the moment of construction could withstand the enemy's artillery strikes. If you do not take into account the purpose of the fortress, but to consider it as a cultural value, it can be argued that the Smolensk fortress wall is exceptionally beautiful. The architect Fyodor Savelievich Horse had the experience of building such structures, but in this project he surpassed himself. Smolensk Kremlin is the most unusual structure of all the works of Fedor Kony, which had six-kilometer walls and 38 towers, and none of the towers repeated in its design and was the only one in its kind.
It is a pity that not all the towers of the Smolensk fortress wall are preserved before our time, but only 17 of them. The total length of the remaining walls is about 3 kilometers. This is a consequence of wars passed on the territory. According to the stories of old-timers, the first towers were destroyed by Polish feudals, then Napoleon claimed these lands, and four more towers were injured during the skirmis with the German troops during World War II. Several remaining towers of the Smolensk Kremlin are local residents disassembled to restore houses destroyed during the war. In 1960, the huge sections of the Smolensk fortress wall were destroyed by workers, freeing the place for new streets of the grown city of Smolensk. And only 10 years later, when historical Smolensk did not require more redevelopment, the Smolensk wall was left alone. Everything that managed to preserve is in primeval form, external changes are due only to small restoration work.
The towers of the Smolensk fortress wall (Smolensk Kremlin).
One of the most popular towers of the Smolensk fortress wall among those are open to tourists is the Thunder Tower, which has a number of other names - Kuninskaya, Topinskaya, Tupinsky Tower. The people say that such a name tower received from a strong roller thunder during a thunderstorm, raging right above it. There is another version of the origin of the name "Thunder", it is associated with the fancy of the structure of the tower itself. It is threateningly nominated forward from the wall, which makes it impregnable and terrible, like thunder.
Nowadays, the Smolensk - Shield of Russia Museum is located in the Thunder Tower, where the exhibits of military equipment are presented, the weapons of the middle of the XIV century. You can also see a small layout that displays the history of the fortress, ranging from the construction of the foundation - you can trace the embodiment of the Grand Project F. Koniya. At the upper tier of the Thunder Tower of the Smolensk Kremlin, there is an observation deck, on which the day you can see an unforgettable panorama of the city, and in the evening, from this site, you can not only admire the lights of the night Smolensk, but also to listen to rock bands, classic orchestras and other popular performers who often arrange His concerts right on this site.
Another open tower of the Smolensk fortress wall is an eagle tower. With this tower there is a wonderful view of the courtyard of the fortress, as well as from here there is a passage to the Tower of Veseluhi. During this walk through the Smolensk fortress wall, you can feel all the greatness and power of this building. Such feelings are due to an unforgettable view of both sides of the wall. On the one hand, this is a picturesque yard, and on the other hand overlooking deep ravines, among which there is a "damn ditch" ravine, in which the ski trail was built.
The tower of the Eagle of the Smolensk Fortress Wall is named as even in the first years after the construction. There is a legend of the family of Orlov, who flew their nest right on top of this tower and lived there for many years, while the first military board did not move the birds and did not forced to fly together with young offspring in safer places. However, despite the fact that the eagles do not live here for a long time, this tower of the Smolensk fortress wall is still carrying its original name.
Smolensk fortress, also called the Kremlin, is one of the most powerful defensive structures in Russia, which remained not entirely, and fragmentary, since most of the fortress was dismantled in the XIX century due to the loss of strategic importance. The length of the walls of the fortress was 6 and a half kilometers, the wall thickness is 5 meters.
Smolensk is known from 863 years old. In 1127 he became the center of the Smolensky principality after Rostislav, the son of Kiev Prince Mstislav, received Smolensk himself in the lot. After the Mongolian invasion, the Smolensk Principality occupies the position of "buffer" between the two elevated great principalities - Moscow and Lithuanian. And after the conclusion in 1385, the Krevian Ulyg between the Kingdom of the Polish and Grand Durability of Lithuanian Smolensk swores the Polish king Yagailo. In turn, the Lithuanian Prince Vitovt took Smolensk in 1395, taking advantage of the princely internecraft there. In 1401, Ryazan Prince Oleg discovered Smolensk at Vitovt, executed all Boyar-supporters of Lithuania and planted at the Smolensk throne Yury Svyatoslavich. However, in 1404, Smolensk again moved to Lithuania after passing the city by boyars. According to the Moscow-Lithuanian Treaty of 1449, the Moscow State refused Smolensk.
However, everything turned out to be not so simple. Already in 1514, after two unsuccessful attempts of the siege, Russian troops took Smolensk and began to promote deep into the Lithuanian state, soon however, the defeat under Ors. In 1522, the Moscow-Lithuanian truce was concluded, according to the terms of which the Smolensk land went to Moscow, and the city of Smolensk became the Western border outpost of the Russian state. In 1595-1602, by decree of Boris Godunov, the architect Fedor horse built a stone fortress in Smolensk, preserved to the present day. The need to build a powerful and defensed fortress in Smolensk was dictated by its border position, it is all the more so on the border with the most dangerous neighbor - a response, a powerful Eastern European state formed after the conclusion in 1569 by the Lublin Union between Poland and Lithuania.
However, already in 1611, after a two-year siege, Smolensk was taken by the Poles, and in 1618, according to the deuly truce, departed to Poland. The Smolensk fortress has now become the eastern outpost of the speech by compolong. But for a long time - in 1654 Smolensk had already finally departed to Russia.
Smolensk fortress, as I said, remained in fragments that are now in different parts of the city. By their location, you can trace the holistic line of the fortress, which in the past washing the city around the perimeter, as can be seen on the map below (the map is taken from the Internet space):
First, I show two preserved fragments in the northern part of the fortress. This segment of the wall stretched along the shore of the Dnieper.
2. View from the side of the Dnieper, that is, outside the fortress wall.
3. And this is the view from the inside. In the background it is clear that the red brick house is close to the fortress wall.
4. In this place the fragment of the fortress wall stands between the houses, being adapted under the restaurant "Smolensk Fortress" and the Museum of Russian Vodka.
5. At the gate the fortress wall in the longitudinal section descends to the ground under the tilt.
6. In 1811-1812, the Church of the Smolensk Icon of God's Mother of God was "built-in" the Church of the Smolensk Icon of God, that is, the "guide". On both sides of the dome there are two bell tower. In the past, the church was notable.
7. Volkova Tower closes this preserved section of the fortress.
8. A little indeed stands the Red Tower:
9. Wrapped, you can see another fragment of the fortress from above, on the hill, over the private sector. This frame is visible to the Tower of Vezelukha, who gained his name at the long-time recreation center Smollyan. It is the photo of this tower from a close distance you see on the title frame.
10. Up, among private houses, Timiryazev's street rises, paved by a cobblestone:
11. Getting up, it stretches along the fortress wall. Very strange to see a powerful fortress wall and private wooden houses with grandmothers discussing harvesting. I have nowhere, except for old Ladoga, did not see.
12. Pozdnyakova Tower. Behind the trees is a spiritual seminary.
13. Passing a little more, I saw the gate in the fortress wall and went inside the fortress. More precisely, on the contrary, it came out. :)
This, partially renovated part of the fortress is absolutely not visited by tourists. Judging by the footsteps from the fires, Smolyan walk here on picnics. And at the moment of my stay in this place there, besides me, there was no one at all that I was surprised.
14. Tower of Eagle:
15. From here there is a picturesque view of the ravines and the slope of the hill, descending to the Dnieper:
16. View of the fortress from the outside. Behind the trees a little visible Late Tower:
17. Asspensky Cathedral is visible:
18. Abrahamieva and the Baltic Tower. In the Abrahamoy Tower, as I see, the same design technique is used as in a nut and old lag - the gate have a M-shaped form, in order to enter the inner gate to the direct vendor.
19. And this is the tower of Eagle. Only from the inside:
20. Abraamiyev and the Baltic Tower on the inside:
21. Staircase inside the Abraham Tower. It did not get it, the staircase is cool, and behind the shoulders a heavy backpack. :)
22. By the title "Caltar Tower" it is not difficult to guess that there is any major temple nearby. Indeed, the monastery was located nearby (the name and neighboring tower) was located nearby, from which now only the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Lord, prominent on the right side of the frame, was now preserved.
The fortress stretches further to the south side, but I, unfortunately, did not go there. But I went to the southern part of it, located in the city center. The fortress walls here are in the Lopatin Garden - Smolensk Park of Culture and Leisure. People here are much more.
23. The Thunder Tower stands separately:
24. Nearby is a monument to Fedor Konya - the builder of the Smolensk Fortress:
26. And then the fortress wall begins again and the ditch stretching along it. In the background you can see the Kopten Tower:
28. More gates:
29. The left leaves another earthen shaft, which remained from the Royal Bastion - Polish construction of the 1630s.
30. Types of walls on the inside:
In general, the Smolensk fortress, named by Boris Godunov "Necklace of the Russian Earth" represents, in my opinion, an interesting sample of Russian fortification architecture. Honestly, I was especially surprised by the northeastern part of the fortress, where an every time-powerful and rich history is a serfdom of a fortress wall, "the grandmothers discusses the harvest (I already mentioned it), next to the tower there is a sports field. In this case, there are no visitors. Although the neighborhood with the fortress wall is local Smolyan, of course, accustomed. :)
Stone Smolensk Fortress is not the first such building in the city, and not even the last one. Back in the XII century, Smolensky Prince Rostislav Mstislavich will acquaint the city with a wooden wall. In the XV century, when Smolensk was part of the Grand Duchy of Lithuanian, the city was acquired by a high earthen shaft, at which in the middle of the XVI century Ivan the Terrible erected a wooden fortress. Today, there is nothing left from wooden structures, only fragments of the Lithuanian shaft in the southern part of the fortress.
After the construction in 1602, the modern stone fortress in Smolensk was twice the earth strengthening of a closed form: in the XVII century, the Poles built a five-marched royal fortress on the site of the plot blown by them during the siege of the city in 1609-1611 (there is a very day in the CPKIO "Lopatinsky Garden" ), and in the XVIII century, at the beginning of the Northern War, Peter I built on the right bank of the Dnieper, opposite the main bridge, a stone-earth kronverk, completely disassembled in the 30s of the XIX century.
The stone fortress in Smolensk was built by the decree of Tsar Fyodor Joanovich in 1596-1602 by the forces of the entire state of Moscow, since in 1603 a truce with a responding speech was expired. For the first time in the domestic history, labor was used nearly 30 thousand hired workers. For 6 years, the fortress walls of up to 18 m. Height and 38 towers, height from 22 to 33 m. (Mostly three-tiered). The thickness of the walls is up to 6 m. The total length of the fortress for a combat perimeter was 6.5 km. There was no more powerful wall in Russia, neither now. Circled the fortress of "City Affairs Master", a native of Smolensk region Fedor horse.
In the XVII century During the Russian-Polish wars, the fortress was withstanding three sieges, a total duration of more than 3 years, and no longer anyone could take it from the battle (in 1609-1611 its Poles precipitated, and in 1633-1634 and in 1654 - Russian troops) . In August 1812, the fortress walls were withstanding a two-day assault and artillery shelling of the Army of Emperor Napoleon. In November of the same year, retreating from Smolensk, Napoleon ordered to mince and blow up the fortress towers. On November 5, 9 towers took off on the air, the rest were repulsed and was cleaned by the Don Cossack Corps of Ataman M.I. Platov.
Unfortunately, not the war, and peacefully destroyed the Smolensk fortress. In the 1820-30s, she was sacrificed on a stone and a brick to restore the ruined war buildings, and in the 1930s - to expand new sites during active Stalin's construction (the brick was again in the case). So until today, 18 towers and 9 wall fragments have been preserved, with a total length of almost 3.5 km. These fragments found in different parts of the city. The longest plot, more than 1.5 km long., Located in the eastern part of the city along the street. Zhukova and ul. Timiryazev from Nikolsky gates in the south-east to the Tower of Vezelukha in the north.
At the Eagle Tower, you can completely freely climb the fortress and walk on the plot from the Avraami Tower to a cheerlehi. Only here you will understand all the power and greatness of the Smolensk fortress, which are enhanced by the panoramic effect, since on both sides, the eastern part of the wall is limited deep (up to 30 m.) Ovragg. On the slope of the external ravine "Fixes" the ski slopes with a bugel lift is laid. A particularly impressive view of the city and its surroundings, to the Assumption Cathedral and the fortress, opens from the top platform of the Eagle Tower, to which it is very easy to climb.