The life of Sergei Yesenin is closely connected with the Ryazan region: the poet was born and raised here and returned here several times - first during his studies from nearby Spas-Klepikov on vacation, then from European and overseas capitals. Having left for Moscow in July 1912, the poet always remembered his “small Motherland” and never tired of singing about it in poetry. On this journey you will visit native village Yesenin Konstantinovo, the places in which he performed, you will recognize Sergei Alexandrovich not as the hero of the series and scandalous publications, but as a close, homely, dear person.
Duration
Possible with children
Program
The excursion will follow the route of Sergei Yesenin from railway station Divovo to the village of Konstantinovo. It was this way that Yesenin got to his home from Moscow.
- At Divovo station you can visit an exhibition dedicated to the life of this village and the stay of Sergei Yesenin in it. You will find out where the poet drank tea, what houses he passed by, who he communicated with and met during his stay in this village.
- In the village of Fedyakino, which we will visit, Yesenin read his poems to his grateful fellow countrymen. You will see the house in which the poet performed.
- In Konstantinovo, where Sergei Alexandrovich was born and lived, I will tell you about the life of the village, about its traditions and way of life, and show you the places that Yesenin visited. You will learn the history of his family, see where he studied, where he had fun and rested. great poet. Meet his first love and the woman to whom he dedicated an entire poem.
- Going out onto the high birch trees of the winding Oka, you will be able to see the same Russian expanses that Yesenin himself saw and which inspired him so much.
Thus, you will see the birthplace of the great poet Silver Age, about which he wrote more than once in his poems, get imbued with the atmosphere that inspired his creativity and instilled immense love for Russia, you will get to know Yesenin from a new side: not a jokester and a ladies' man, but a romantic with a vulnerable soul.
Organizational details
- A visit to the exhibitions of the museum-reserve is not included in the price of the excursion and is paid separately. A single ticket for all exhibitions costs 300 rubles per person.
- Departure from Ryazan. It is possible to meet directly at the Divovo station where the excursion will begin.
- The cost of the excursion does not include transportation costs. It is possible to provide a car for a group of no more than 2 people. Transport for 1-2 people - 1000 rubles. For 2-20 people (Mersedes or VW) - 5000 rubles.
+3
Book a tour on any of the available days on the calendar
- This is a private tour, the guide will conduct it for you and your company.
- On the site you pay 20% of the cost, and the rest of the money goes to the guide on the spot. You can ask the guide any questions before paying.
Free day
Busy day
32% discount
I represent a tourism and educational project. Each of our events and excursions is preceded by serious work with factual material, verified sources and archival data. We believe that learning about your history, traditions, and just a walk around the city or a trip out of town can be atmospheric and not boring.
More details
5 traveler reviews
Hello. Visited Yeseninsky places. The guide is a storehouse of knowledge about the life history of Sergei Yesenin. I learned a lot about the life and work of Sergei. The guide knows many poems by Sergei Yesenin. And recordings of poetry performed by Sergei Yesenin himself are an indescribable experience.
Most recently we visited Yesenin’s places in Ryazan region. The impressions are still fresh and very vivid! The museum combines several objects. Everything is designed with such soul. An incomparable excursion, interesting and informative! Of course, very beautiful nature. Indeed, who knows, if Yesenin had been born in another place, he could have become such a great poet? I recommend everyone to take this excursion!
Ksenia is a competent, knowledgeable guide. She was able to satisfy diverse interests different people. Sociable, punctual, knows her region. Contact her and you won't regret it
Olga is simply magical! From the very beginning she told us that she was not just a guide, but a local lover, and she really managed to make us fall in love with these beautiful places. Don’t hire a guide on the spot - it’s a waste of both time and money. Olga told everything in such detail that it’s hard to understand how anyone can remember so much information. She is very well educated not only within the framework of this walk, but also in general knows a lot - feel free to walk together in Ryazan itself and in its environs! P.S. Olga even gave us small gifts, which was doubly nice - a person not only does his job well, but does everything with love. Thank you very much!
The day spent with Ksenia brought a lot positive emotions our family, including our 15 year old son. Our journey was dynamic and emotionally easy. Special thanks to Ksenia for visiting Divovo and the stud farm. Despite the fact that Divov’s stables were destroyed, an almost destroyed minaret remained from the house, Ksenia managed to recreate the image of this place, Nikolai Adrianovich Divov and his loved ones. Thank you for a pleasant conversation, and not a monotonous story in Konstantinovo, for your love for Yesenin’s work and the ability to present information in such a form that even looking at photographs in a literary museum turned into a fascinating process of learning what we knew from childhood, as well as learning new ones, we didn't know before known details life and work of Sergei Yesenin.
I left my home, I left blue Rus'. The three-star birch tree above the pond warms the old mother's sadness.
The State Museum-Reserve of S. A. Yesenin is a federal state reserve complex, opened in 1965 in the poet’s homeland, in the village of Konstantinovo, Ryazan region. The museum is unique in that here, in an ancient village above the Oka, the neighborhood of two estates is presented - a peasant's and a lord's. This juxtaposition of two cultures, their traditions and way of life allows us to trace the history of Russia at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries using specific historical material.
The village of Konstantinovo has stood on the high bank of the Oka River for almost four centuries. The first currently known mention of it dates back to 1619, when it was in the Palace Department.
Museum of Sergei Yesenin in the village of Konstantinovo in the Rybnovsky district of the Ryazan region - native home Yesenina
Sergei Yesenin's parents are Alexander Nikitich and
Tatyana Fedorovna. 1905 S. Yesenin with his sisters. 1912
During the time of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, the village was granted to the steward brothers Myshetsky, who carried out diplomatic assignments and did it successfully. In 1700, Yakov Efimovich Myshetsky gave the central part of the village as a dowry to his daughter Natalya, and her husband Kirill Alekseevich Naryshkin, one of the associates of Tsar Peter I, became the owner.
House in the courtyard of the Yesenins' house
barn of the Yesenin house
After 28 years, the estate was inherited by their son Semyon Kirillovich, who in turn bequeathed it in 1775 to his nephew, Prince Alexander Mikhailovich Golitsyn, senator, Chief Chamberlain, Actual Privy Councilor, holder of both Russian orders and the Polish Order of the White Eagle.
He built a stone building of the Church of the Icon of the Kazan Mother of God, in place of a wooden one. In 1806, he bought the second part of the village from the widow of Major A.N. Matova. The earthly journey of Prince A. M. Golitsin ended in 1808, and, according to his spiritual will, the estate passed to his illegitimate daughter Ekaterina De Litsina, in her marriage to Dolgorukova. She will continue her father’s work in building the temple and will erect a bell tower at her own expense. The village was transferred to his nephew, E. A. Dolgorukova, Alexander Dmitrievich Olsufiev, from his aunt in 1845.
House of S. A. Yesenin’s parents (as part of the State Museum-Reserve of S. A. Yesenin
His son, Vasily Aleksandrovich Olsufiev, will receive the inheritance in 1853. He lives permanently in Moscow, and the affairs of the estate are managed by a manager who collects the monetary rent and sends it to the owner. An epochal event in the life of the Constantine peasants was the Tsar’s Manifesto of February 19, 1861, which abolished serfdom. The charter was signed on August 20, 1862. As documents show, the peasants received 14,000 dessiatinas 741 fathoms of land and paid 72 thousand 940 rubles 40 kopecks for it.
At the end of the 11th century railways in Russia they began to connect big cities, transporting firewood by water turned out to be economically unprofitable; in addition, fires that occurred in the backwaters destroyed many barges at the beginning of the twentieth century, which led to the ruin of the owners and the cessation of their activities. They had to change their occupation. Work in trading shops in Moscow has now turned into one of the most profitable types of latrine trade. An example is the father of S. A. Yesenin, Alexander Nikitovich, who was sent at the age of 14 to work in the butcher shop of the merchant Krylov.
Over time, he happened to become a senior clerk and sales agent. At the same time, his family remained to live in Konstantinov, and he himself never lost touch with his homeland. In 1879, V. A. Olsufiev sold the Konstantinovsky estate to merchants from city near Moscow Bogoditsk to Sergei, Nikolai and Alexander Grigorievich Kupriyanov. The owners of the brick factory and weaving factory destroyed the old wooden house and built a new dacha-type building with a ground floor and a spacious veranda. On the initiative and with the financial support of S. G. Kupriyanov, a zemstvo school was opened in the village in 1879, from which the Yesenins’ father and son graduated at one time. The Kupriyanovs' affairs began to deteriorate in the 1900s.
Ruin came, and in 1895 the estate was sold to Ivan Petrovich Kulakov, Hereditary Honorary Citizen of the City of Moscow. He owned it until 1911, and after his death, his daughter Lydia Ivanovna, married to Kashina, who visited S.A., became the heir. Yesenin visited in 1916-17.
By the beginning of the twentieth century, the historical appearance of the village was finally formed, the peculiarity of which is the length along coastline rivers for more than three kilometers. “Order” - a wide central street and several “ends”, that is, side streets, such as Alekseevka,
Kazan Church in Konstantinov
In the center of the village of Konstantinova, opposite the Church of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God, the Yesenin estate is located. Here, in 1871, the poet's grandfather Nikita Osipovich Yesenin built a house where Sergei Alexandrovich Yesenin was born on September 21 (October 3 - according to the new style) 1895. Over time, the dilapidated grandfather's house was demolished, and in its place in 1909 a new, smaller one was built.
It is with him that Yesenin’s poetic image of the “golden log hut” is associated. In 1965, a museum of the famous Russian poet was opened in this simple village hut. Over time, a whole complex appeared in Konstantinov - the State Museum-Reserve of S.A. Yesenina. But its heart still remains the “low house” of the Yesenins, restored in 2000.
The exposition of the house takes us back to the 20s, when, being a famous poet throughout Russia, Sergei Yesenin came to his parents’ house to rest his tormented soul here.
A spacious entryway leads to the warm part of the house, where among the peasant utensils and tools, the sickle and half-braid of Tatyana Fedorovna Yesenina, the poet’s mother, stand out.
As soon as you enter the residential part of the house, you cannot help but notice the small kitchen with a snow-white Russian stove and household items. On the table there is a bucket “grandfather’s” samovar - a witness to many tea parties in the Yesenin family.
Opposite the kitchen is a hallway with a Dutch oven. The poet slept on a wooden bed next to a hot stove when he came to his parents’ house in the cold season.
The largest and brightest room is the upper room. In the red corner are icons of Tatiana Fedorovna, her pectoral cross. On the wall next to the stove are family photographs and Sergei’s certificate of merit, which he received upon graduating from the zemstvo school. The “wooden clock” also counts down time, as if an oak table with a kerosene lamp under a green lampshade, by the light of which Sergei Yesenin often worked, is waiting for the poet.
From the upper room we find ourselves in the room of the poet's mother. Here are her clothes and the famous fur coat - “shushun”, in which Tatyana Fedorovna often went out onto the road and, peering into the distance, waited for her son.
Immediately behind the house there is a garden where cherries grow in abundance. Hidden in its depths was a temporary hut (restored in 2003), in which, after the fire of 1922, the Yesenins were forced to huddle. Nearby is an apple tree that miraculously survived the fire. Not far from the temporary hut there is a barn built back in 1913. During the poet’s summer visits, it turned into his bedroom and study. At the very end of the estate there is a restored barn (shed for drying sheaves).
In 1970, a park was laid out next to the Yesenins’ estate, where trees dear to the poet’s heart were planted: birches, maples, lilacs, lindens, rowan trees... On October 4, 2007, a bronze monument to Sergei Yesenin by the sculptor was installed in the park
A.A. Bichukova.
The Yesenin estate is never deserted: at any time of the year, fans of the poetry of S.A. Yesenin are eager to see the land that gave the world the great poet.
Over the years, the building was used as housing for local school teachers, and a consumer services plant was also located here. The premises were transferred to the museum in 1969, after renovation, a literary exhibition opened a year later, and in 1995, in the former house of L. I. Kashina, the Museum of S. A. Yesenin’s poem “Anna Snegina” was created, which is still in operation today.
Residents of the village of Konstantinovo became collective farmers in 1930, when a labor artel appeared, then, already in the 50s, after consolidation, they became part of the Lenin collective farm, with its center in the neighboring village of Kuzminskoye. Currently, the collective farm has been transformed into Yeseninskoye LLC, and the village of Konstantinovo has become a place of real pilgrimage for numerous fans of S. A. Yesenin’s poetry in our country and abroad.
Immediately after the death of Sergei Aleksandrovich Yesenin, fans of his work most often traveled to Konstantinovo on foot. The poet’s mother, Tatyana Fedorovna Yesenina, and then sisters Alexandra Alexandrovna and Ekaterina Alexandrovna met numerous guests in Yesenin’s house. Thus, thousands of entries with wishes to open a poet’s museum in Konstantinovo appeared in notebooks for reviews.
Sergei and Isadora
On July 28, 1965, a government decree was adopted to perpetuate the memory of S. A. Yesenin in his homeland. The Memorial House-Museum of S. A. Yesenin, opened on October 2, 1965 as a branch of the Ryazan Regional Museum of Local Lore, over the years has turned into one of the largest museum complexes in the country. The heart of the museum-reserve was and remains the house of Sergei Yesenin’s parents.
Kashina Estate (Museum of the poem “Anna Snegina”)
In March 1984, a museum complex was formed in Konstantinovo as part of the peasant estate of the Yesenins, the estate of L. I. Kashina with a manor house and a park, with the Church of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God, with a village square, with the building of a former second-grade teacher's school in the city of Spas-Klepiki and the surrounding natural and architectural environment, by decision of the Council of Ministers of the RSFSR, became the State Museum-Reserve of S. A. Yesenin.
Former priest's house
The possibility of opening another museum exhibition in Spas-Klepiki, dedicated to the 90th anniversary of the birth of S. A. Yesenin, and holding the First All-Union Yesenin Poetry Festival in 1985 became real. Celebrating the centenary of the birth of S. A. Yesenin on Ryazan land, in his homeland, was a significant event in cultural life our country. It was at this time that the museum was reconstructed. By this date in 1995, two new museum exhibitions were opened: the museum of the poem “Anna Snegina” and the Konstantinovsky Zemstvo Primary Public School.
Museum of the poem "Anna Snegina"
Next to the Church of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God is the estate of the last Konstantinovsky landowner Lydia Ivanovna Kashina. Sergei Yesenin first met the owner of the estate in the summer of 1916. At this time he was already the author of his first poetry collection, “Radunitsa”. Lydia Kashina became one of the prototypes for the main character of the poem “Anna Snegina”.
Sergei Yesenin visited Kashina’s house more than once, since he had friendly relations with the hostess. In 1918, after the nationalization of the estate, the poet helped Lydia Ivanovna move to Moscow, and he himself stayed in her Moscow apartment. After the revolution, Kashina’s country house was used for the needs of the village, and in October 1969 a literary exhibition was opened there. On the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the poet’s birth in 1995, the museum’s exhibitions of one Yesenin poem, “Anna Snegina,” were located in the rooms of the house.
Museum exhibitions occupy the first floor of the “house with a mezzanine”. The exhibits tell us about the life of the Kashina family, its guests, and the poet’s fellow villagers. Manuscripts, photographs, and household items help to draw parallels between the inhabitants of the house and the heroes of the poem, telling about the life of the Constantinians during the years of the revolution.
Among the exhibits are Lydia Ivanovna’s memorial grand piano, her miniature chest of drawers, a box and other items. Autographs of Sergei Yesenin’s poem “Anna Snegina” accompany museum visitors in almost every room.
Isadora Duncan's fur coat and Sergei Yesenin's jacket
From them one can trace the poet’s attitude to the First World War and the Revolution, the mood of the village residents in the “harsh, menacing years,” and the relationships of the heroes. The exhibition presents the first collection of poems by Sergei Yesenin “Radunitsa”, the poet’s personal belongings: inkwell, paperweight, ashtray, notebook cover, etc.
The Museum of the Poem “Anna Snegina”, through an acquaintance with the house where the poet visited, immerses the reader in the atmosphere of the events described in one of best poems Sergei Yesenin.
Zemstvo school
Konstantinovskaya Zemstvo School, in which in 1904-1909. studied by S. Yesenin
It was restored to the poet’s anniversary in its original location. The exhibition of this museum reveals the role of zemstvo schools in the education and upbringing of peasant children.
The only photo of Yesenin with his fellow villagers, taken in Konstantinovo. In it, Yesenin is fourteen, and he climbed onto something to appear taller next to the young Russian beauty.
Literary exhibition
In the Literary Exhibition, opened in 1995 in the scientific and cultural center, unique exhibits are presented: lifetime publications of the poet and his contemporaries, the book “Radunitsa” with the author’s first autograph, the table at which S. A. Yesenin worked in the Caucasus, his death mask, personal belongings . A new museum exhibition at the Spas-Klepikovskaya school, from which Sergei graduated in 1912, tells, in particular, about the high humanistic traditions of Russian teaching, about the search for the spiritual path of youth, about the formation creative personality future poet.
Autograph letter to M.V. Averyanov, 1916
In 2010, next to the Church of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God, a new exhibition was opened - the house of the priest I. Ya. Smirnov.
At the beginning of the twentieth century, the house of Father John was cultural center Konstantinov, the surrounding clergy, rural intelligentsia, student youth gathered here, Sergei Yesenin often visited there
The building of the school where S. Yesenin studied in Spas-Klepiki
Spas-Klepiki is a city located 80 km. from Ryazan. At the beginning of the twentieth century it was a large trading village. In 1896 it was opened educational institution, which trained literacy school teachers. Spas-Klepikovskaya second-grade teacher's school was located in the spiritual department.
In 1985, the preserved building of the teachers' school, which became a branch of the State Museum-Reserve S.A. Yesenin, opened its doors to the first visitors. In 2005, on the 110th anniversary of the birth of S.A. Yesenin, in the building of the Spas-Klepikovskaya second-grade teacher’s school, a new exhibition was opened, telling in detail not only about Sergei Yesenin’s studies at this school in 1909-1912, but also about the life of the Klepikovites late XIX- beginning of the 20th century.
Rating: / 2Views: 2261
Ryazan addresses of blond Lelya
During his short but bright life, Sergei Yesenin managed to see and experience a lot. In only one Western Europe he visited more than 30 cities. But the memory of this amazing man is preserved not only by the fashionable quarters of New York, Berlin and Paris, but also by the streets of Ryazan, which a century ago was the city closest to small homeland poet.
Today, thanks to the efforts of the Yesenin Center at Ryazan State University and the research of local historian Yuri Vadimovich BLUDOV, more than 20 addresses have been identified in Ryazan with which the life and work of Sergei Yesenin are connected.
In this material we want to introduce you to the most significant Yesenin addresses in Ryazan, with a special emphasis on buildings crowned with memorial plaques. 
One of the leading Yesenin scholars in the country, head of the Yesenin Center of Ryazan, kindly agreed to become our guide. state university, doctor philological sciences, Professor Olga Efimovna VORONOVA.
A poem with action elements
“2016, by Decree of President V.V. Putin declared the Year of Russian Cinema. And, probably, it would be logical to start the story about the memorable Yesenin places in Ryazan with house number 63 on Pochtovaya street, says Olga Voronova. - 100 years ago, the Daryaly electric theater was located here. In the summer of 1917 Yesenin visited him.
In December 2005, a memorial plaque recording this fact was installed on the facade of the building. It became the first memorial sign of this kind on the territory of Ryazan associated with Yesenin.
Sergei Alexandrovich loved this new art very much. He later used many cinematic techniques in his play “Country of Scoundrels,” which, based on its genre characteristics and plot intrigue, can be considered the first Soviet Western, a relevant political action film.
By the way, the muse of the poet Augusta Miklashevskaya, to whom the cycle “The Love of a Hooligan” is dedicated, starred in many silent films. A good friend of the poet was a regular guest of the Kashins’ estate, Ivan Khudoleev, one of the significant figures of Russian pre-revolutionary cinema.”
Attempt at writing
Another memorial plaque was installed on the building located at the address: , where the Ryazinvest enterprise is now located.
Before the revolution, public places were located here, that is, structures that were in one way or another connected with the then local government, including the editorial office of the Ryazan Provincial Gazette. It was here in the summer of 1912 that Yesenin came with his first handwritten cycle “Sick Thoughts,” written during his years of study at the Spas-Klepikovskaya church-teachers’ school. The poems of the aspiring poet, unfortunately, were not appreciated and, accordingly, were not accepted for publication.
“He gave the treasured notebook to his friend Sergei Ilyin, and these early experiments of a budding writer were published only in the 60s of the last century,” explains Olga Voronova.
Savior of the Peasants
The third plaque is located on the building of the Russian FSB Directorate for the Ryazan Region.
Before the revolution, Steiert's hotel was located here, and in the first post-revolutionary years - Ryazgubchek's hotel. There is an amazing story associated with this property. According to Olga Voronova, she characterizes Yesenin as a people's defender and a truly brave person.
In the summer of 1918, at the height of civil war Residents of the village of Konstantinovo experienced hunger and deprivation. Driven to despair, the peasants decided to expropriate the cargo of the barge traveling along the Oka.
Having sailed in boats to the barge, they ordered the captain of the ship to stop on pain of death and took away the bags of apricots and roach that were on board.
The next day, a detachment of Red Army soldiers surrounded the village, and its leaders demanded that the instigators of the robbery be handed over. The villagers refused to do this, and about 20 people were taken as hostages and taken to Ryazan, to the Gubchek.
According to martial law, detained peasants could be shot. About three weeks passed in anxious anticipation. In order to discuss the current situation, a village meeting gathered. Fortunately, Yesenin arrived in Konstantinovo at this time.
The poet personally went to Ryazan and came to the building of the provincial Cheka to negotiate the release of his fellow countrymen.
“At that time, Yesenin was already a recognized poet in the country,” says Olga Efimovna. - His poems and poems appeared in collections and were published in leading magazines and newspapers in Russia.
Sergei Aleksandrovich met in the building of the “Chrezvychaika” a classmate from school in Spas-Klepiki, Mikhail Kalabukhov, who headed a company of special forces (CHON), whose duties included, in particular, the suppression of peasant unrest.
As a result, at Yesenin’s request, all peasants were released without preconditions.”
This story is still passed on by Konstantinovites from generation to generation.
It is curious that at that harsh time the Ryazan gubchek was headed by Ivan Potemkin, who at the same time worked as the executive editor of the provincial newspaper Izvestia.
It was in this newspaper, shortly after the poet’s noble deed, that Yesenin’s only lifetime publication in the regional press appeared - the poem “The Jordan Dove”. The lines from this work “The sky is like a bell, The month is a language, My mother is my homeland, I am a Bolshevik” soon became textbook.
Deferment for conscripts
The fourth plaque is related to the First World War. In the year of the centenary of its beginning, in September 2014, it was installed on the building of the former Kalinkin Brewing Partnership during the next International Yesenin Conference. The author of the board is the famous Ryazan sculptor Raisa Lysenina. The Russian Military Historical Society, RRO “Business Russia”, local historian, member of the city toponymic commission Arsen Baburin contributed to the installation of the plaque. IN Soviet time a soft drink factory was located here. Now the building is owned by the Russian Brewing Company.
On the second floor of the mentioned house, before the revolution, the Ryazan district conscription office was located (analogous to the current military registration and enlistment office).
According to the Decree of Emperor Nicholas II, issued in the spring of 1915, recruits of 1916, which included Yesenin, were subject to early conscription. The poet was forced to come from Petrograd, where he was already taking steps towards all-Russian glory, to Ryazan in order to pass the draft board.
Sergei Alexandrovich, who arrived in this building on May 20, 1915, was enrolled in “second-class warriors” due to myopia and given a deferment until January 1916.
A few months later, the poet was drafted into the army and became a military orderly on the Tsarskoye Selo military ambulance train. Yesenin plunged into the elements of war and saw it from such a terrible side that even many of those who fought on the front line did not know it. His impressions of that time were reflected not only in the poems of the war period, but also in the poem “Anna Snegina”, written 10 years later.
The fifth memorial plaque is not directly related to life and creativity famous poet. It is installed on the building of the Ryazan branch of the Moscow state institute culture (Lenin street, building 1/70) and perpetuates the renaming of Ryazhskaya Street to Yesenin Street, which took place on June 19, 1965 in the year of the poet’s 70th anniversary.
By the way, a few tens of meters from the building there is a cafe “Ash”, and it is from the name of this tree, sacred to the ancient Slavs, that, according to one version, the surname “Yesenin” comes from. Although the poet himself still believed that his surname originates from the Old Slavonic “esen”, that is, autumn.
Yesenin Center of the Russian State University named after S.A. Yesenina and Ryazan social activists plan to continue work on installing memorial plaques dedicated to our great fellow countryman in the regional center.
Prepared by Denis Abrakov
Weekly "Dom.Stroy"
№ 2
(01/20/2016)
... Yesenin’s father and mother plowed the land. Such a peasant fate was also expected by logic for children. But no. They chose a subtle soul for the boy up there. Thoughtful and tender. His parents are peasants made of earth and dung, and he sees how “the scarlet color of dawn was woven on the lake” and “the lilac weather sprinkled the silence with lilac.”
…S. Yesenin Museum-Reserve- “a most valuable monument of history and culture” - amazed us. Unpleasant.
…We listened to a little memorized speech of the young guide. An absent look and a mechanical presentation of the memorized text, repeating word for word the brochure I just bought for 10 rubles. Just a plate with eyes.
The birthplace of Sergei Yesenin is the village of Konstantinovo- located ~ 20 km from Ryazan. A huge poster with a picture of a poet will prevent you from missing a left turn from the main road. The road passes through the town of Rybnoye, where everyone is very Beekeeping Museum from the only (!) research institute in our country that studies honey and bees (Pochtovaya St., 22, 10-16, except Sat. and Sun.). There you will breathe in the honey aromas, they will show you beehive church(which was made by a beekeeper from Vyatka), beehive-bell tower, honey decks “Tsar”, “Tsarina” and “Princess”, By the way, there you can also sign up for beekeeping courses :) or purchase a “collection of seeds of nectar-bearing plants” :). And also you can try on beekeepers' clothes and twirl the honey extractor, see a hive from Africa. The building is sunny yellow with a honeycomb pattern on the wall.. The excursions are conducted by the curator of the museum, Alexey Dmitrievich Gorin. A rare person who is passionate about honey and bees.
We entered Konstantinovo itself by touch. At the fork behind Rybny, another Yesenin portrait-poster flashed, indicating the direction, and this was the end of the limit of landmarks.
Therefore, explanations - at the village you need to turn left, in the village itself - left again. A huge parking lot filled with buses and cars, left wooden house - Cashier-Souvenirs.
It turned out that need to buy different tickets, upon request to visit - Literary Museum (1), Kashina House (2), Yesenin Family House (3), Zemstvo School (4). Here I must say that we arrived in Konstantinovo on an incredibly hot June day. Coming out of the cool salon, we immediately found ourselves in a hot oven. The backpacks instantly stuck to their backs, and it was a pity to look at the abandoned car - it was practically smoking under the pressure of solar lava. Therefore, the issue of visiting was resolved quickly - Kashinsky and his family at home, school, we couldn’t stand much more. Looking ahead, for a comprehensive acquaintance with this iconic place, I will say that It’s better, of course, to take tickets to all exhibitions. The map on the fence helped us navigate the area, but here, in principle, you won’t get lost.
But.
The S. Yesenin Museum-Reserve - “a most valuable monument of history and culture” - amazed us. Unpleasant. Perhaps this is the first of these memorial places that we visited that missed the spiritual component. It is not clear where they put it.
As soon as we entered the territory, crows cawed thickly and rustily above our heads. There are a lot of them here. And this immediately leaves an unpleasant and uncomfortable feeling. Why not disperse them? After all, this is not a landfill (with which there is a direct association), but a Yesenin museum!
In front of the fence - a brisk sale of souvenirs(of which I would leave only the paintings and move the rest of the accomplices further away), behind the fence there is a pandemonium of people.
For some reason, right next to the house (and against the background of trees with crow's nests) there is a giant iron figure of Yesenin, and in no way similar to him. And the dissonance with nature is terrible. The author of the plan, sculptor Bichukov, installed this work in 2007. The question immediately arises - Why in this place? There is a queue at the monument to take photographs of yourself “against the background”. Moreover, everyone rushes to hold on to the polished little finger. Like something dreamed will come true. There are no comments for this picture. Moreover, I don’t think that Yesenin will be offended by me for these words.
There is a traffic jam at the door of the tiny hut. We barely made it inside. Yes, she is clean, pleasant, peasant - but - not a single explanatory inscription on the wall! Whose room, whose clothes, etc. - There are no explanations at all.
At the same time, it’s hot, stuffy, and crowded with people. Can't adjust the flow? Falling out of the house, let's go see the thatched barn, around which people are also crowding, And again you think - what happened here?
The only thing, I remember and liked the huge poplar tree at the gate entrance- it is believed that Sergei Alexandrovich himself planted it.
And on a bench nearby, one young man with a guitar in his hands was selling CDs with songs performed, incl. and their own, based on Yesenin’s poems. On the copy we bought, he reverently and proudly signed - Alexey Verny.
The School nearby (also a recreated building) has the same story.
Kashina's house (finally an original!), V literally checkpoint. Because again, nowhere, even the photographs on the wall!, are there any explanatory captions. Again they create an inferiority complex for single tourists. Either guess xy from xy, or take a tour. Therefore, glancing over the chairs and furniture, you quickly pass through the entire small number of small rooms (the second floor is closed). By the way, we listened to a little speech from the young tour guide, which was thoroughly memorized. An absent gaze and a mechanical presentation of the memorized text, repeating word for word the brochure I just bought for 10 rubles... Just a plate with eyes.
What’s worth coming to Yesenin for is the view of the “Ryazan expanse”, which once eclipsed the Persian Shiraz ( http://www.museum-esenin.ru/web.gallery/, cm. "Landscapes of the village of Konstantinovo"). Observation deck located right behind the Literary Museum. A place of great simply beauty opens up to your eyes. Krutoyar, Oka, sky, distance. Some kind of lunar landscape. I have never seen hills lying on the ground so bizarrely - literally frozen waves. Green. Somewhere, very far in the distance, a huge herd of cows was picturesquely dazzling in a far, far away meadow. This is where you definitely get a feeling of belonging to Yesenin’s thoughts. He stood under this sky, looked into this vast distance, walked along these velvet hillocks.
Just think about it.
Father- Alexander Yesenin, mother Tatiana. Their marriage was concluded not for love. She would give birth to 14 children, four of whom would survive. Sergusha, her second child(1895) from this second marriage. Katya and Shurochka will be born in 10 and 16 years. Peasants. The land was plowed. Such a peasant fate was also expected by logic for children. But no. They chose a subtle soul for the boy up there. Thoughtful and tender. His parents are peasants made of earth and dung, and he sees how “the scarlet color of dawn was woven on the lake” and “the lilac weather sprinkled the silence with lilac.” Yesenin lived greedily and colorfully. Golden head. The hair - “taken from the rye” - is dark blond with a bright golden tint. Eyes like forget-me-nots, blue turquoise. He loved many women, but he loved everyone only - “by the way, at the same time as others on earth.” But truly only one - Rus', Ryazan - his native land.
Between the landowner-neighbor Lidia Kashina(to her 30
) and Yesenin (to him 21
) there was a romantic feeling. Poem "Green hairstyle - girlish breasts" dedicated among several others to her.
Lidia Ivanovna Kashina has a strange path in life.
Born in 1886. Millionaire's daughter Ivan Kulakov, who made his capital from apartment buildings in Moscow. In 1904 ( 18 years) - graduated from the Alexander Institute of Noble Maidens with honors. In 1905 ( 19 years) married teacher Nikolai Kashin. They have two children - Yura and Nina. In 1911 ( 25 years) receives a huge inheritance from his father. Now she is not just a lady, but a millionaire. The affair with Yesenin happens in 1916 ( 30 years) - “I don’t wait, I don’t beg, I don’t curse, and I don’t lie to my poor heart. But I can’t forget the sweetness of her kiss, I can’t.”…. In 1917 - the Revolution takes away the estate from her. 1919 - she already works as a “secretary-scribe” in the Red Army Communications Directorate. In 1920 - typist at the publishing house of the Trud newspaper. In 1923 (37 years old) - meets with Yesenin in Moscow. Here Nadezhda Volpin describes her: “Definitely a provincial girl. In general appearance, she is a rural teacher. Dull brown hair hangs down over his forehead and ears. The face is slightly cheeky, strong-willed. The nose is hooked, but purely Slavic.” In 1937 ( 51 years old) wanted to go to the Caucasus to heal her health using “the money she earned with her own hands for the first time,” but... her path on earth ends.
She gave a piece of her femininity and destiny to the heroine of the poem “Anna Snegina”. And although the image of the main character in it is collective, her house is now called the “Museum of the Poem “Anna Snegina”.
There is a lot of literature about Yesenin. I liked memories of Nadezhda Volpin"Date with a friend." One of the best sites about the poet: esenin.niv.ru - there is a lot of information here. Among others, here is a curious author and his thoughts - V. Sorokin, "Farewell to Myths". Here is the official website of the museum in Konstantinovo - museum-esenin.ru. It would be a good idea to print out the materials in the “Exhibition” section if you come here. Then don’t repeat our information-deficit experience. I bought a few books in the store where the museum ticket office is located. Ryazan. Monument to Yesenin and cafe “Stable of Pegasus”